They say that travel broadens the mind. It certainly fattens other parts of the body, at least on the basis of our ten day trip to South Carolina, just completed. We had decided to drive down – so with two days there and two days back, that’s a lot of sitting – and broadening.
Once there, it was nice - very nice, in fact – and I’ll talk about that in a minute. But writing about vacations, and vacations for people living with HIV in particular, almost feels awkward. It shouldn’t do, but it does. I guess it’s because so many people in the poz community don’t take them – it’s a luxury that a meagre government disability doesn’t even come close to covering – so we don’t hear much vacation talk. (How’s lack of vacation for one’s health, by the way?) And to be frank, when we do hear some lucky soul has managed to get away somewhere, it tends to grate. People living with HIV are not supposed to have a little luxury, here and there, right?
But here's the thing. There is a myth - or at least a mis-statement - that HIV attacks the disadvantaged in our society. How many times have you heard that, as if the privileged are immune? In truth, HIV disproportionally affects the disadvantaged. I sometimes think that the focus on vulnerable populations – a key pillar of HIV prevention which largely reflects economics/economies of scale - leaves many people out in the cold. The results are everywhere. The roster of poz PositiveLite.com writers, for instance, includes two lawyers, a banker, a public servant. So many of the people I know who have sero-converted are not, in fact, in “vulnerable populations” at all.
So we acknowledge our privilege and move on.
Back to our journey through middle-America to the south, an area of this continent which aside from Florida – and I never think of Florida as the south – I wasn’t all that familiar with. We think of the south as antebellum mansions, Spanish moss, quaint manners, a broadly endearing accent - and mint juleps. I experienced all but the latter. Which is a shame, because I don’t even know what a mint julep is, but I wanted one. Passed on the grits too (do people really eat that stuff?) and I should have passed on the chicken and biscuits, a gloppy concoction foreign to our northern palates, and deservedly so. The hush puppies were OK though. More than OK too were the regional specialties of the Lowcountry of South Carolina, in particular the Gullah food we became addicted to, a remnant of the black slave culture of the south.
Loved Charleston by the way. If there is a prettier, more civilized-looking city in North America, I have yet to find it. I could live there. Savannah, which I had high hopes for, even reading up (again) on The Garden Of Good and Evil so that I could really get in to the groove of the city, was a bit of a disappointment.

But perhaps one of the highlights was in fact seeing middle-America and just how interesting that can be. True, the landscape can look much like our Southern Ontario one - believe it or not, Canada is not all lakes and mountains – but there is an unmistakable foreignness to the United States. It’s hard not to be conscious of the right-wing element, and of the high visibility of religion. Mostly that’s not a problem when one is travelling through – in fact it’s easy to ignore it. Only once did it become obtrusive.
On the journey north, we had stopped at a place off the highway somewhere in North Carolina. It was called Stormin’ Norman’s Barbecue. Partner Meirion alerted me to the sign outside. ”Do you want to go in or not?’ he said. “Christian Owned and Operated. May God Bless You as You Travel” he read. I have no problems with being blessed. So we went in.
We were greeted by a cavernous space, somewhere between a school gymnasium and a real restaurant, with a slightly unpleasant smell and zero charm. It was packed. The service was cafeteria style. There was a long list of options available hand-written over the counter, all variations on Sunday-dinner-style food. The line was moving real fast, so we each grabbed a tray and went for it.
Everything looked like your mother would make - on a bad day. Wanting to play safe and because I’d had some excellent southern fried chicken on our trip already, I ordered that, with a side of baked beans and green beans. The portions were enormous, however, unappetizing looking. I turned down dessert, some gloppy looking stuff scooped out of a large tray. Trifle perhaps? In any event, the whole ball of wax didn’t cost much. And I had in front of me a piece of chicken breast bigger than the average whole turkey. This can’t be bad, I thought.

We sat down with our trays at one of the booths that lined one wall and looked around at our fellow patrons. They were all wearing suits, the men that is. The women, many of a certain age, had on those overly prissy outfits not usually seen outside reruns of The Mary Tyler Moore Show. I should have mentioned this was about noontime on a Sunday; all these folks had clearly just emerged from church and Stormin Norman’s was where they went next. And did I mention that the busboy had a cross emblazoned on the front of his white t-shirt?
We felt conspicuous. Nobody seemed to be actually looking at us, but as two oddly dressed strangers in town we would have expected to be looked at. Nope – they were doing their darndest NOT to look at us, I could tell that. It felt awkward. Plus the food wasn’t tasting all that good – probably the worst, chewiest, least flavourful fried chicken I’ve ever had, in fact. Colonels Sanders had nothing to worry about here at Stormin' Norman's.
The upshot was we left our food all but untouched, and left pretty quickly. It just didn’t feel comfortable being in that space, quite aside from the rotten food. But it left me thinking what a hostile environment places like this would be for same sex couples living in that area, yet alone people living with HIV brave enough to want to disclose, and how political and religious climate does shape our existence, even if we aren’t of the faith.
Let’s be clear, not all the places we visited were anything like this. We loved West Virginia for instance – what a beautiful state that is – and felt instantly comfortable there.
In any event, the south is nice overall. Today’s post is illustrated with iPhone photos from the road, a quirky place at times, plus below, one other I liked from my little Lumix which gives a flavour, perhaps, of the considerable quiet beauty of the south that endears whatever its politics.
